Just as bad money is said to drive out good, so it is that the classic margarita finds itself endangered here in Austin, where once it was nearly impossible to get a bad one. Now the call for a margarita straight up is very often met with a blank face. Does the patron want a margarita on the rocks? Frozen? And here’s the worst response of all: Mexican martini? Maybe without any olive? No; no; a thousand times no! The monstrosities seen in some places around town include bottled lime juice, fizzy lime carbonated beverage, “margarita mix,” and even sugar. The classicist is horrified. Jorge’s of days gone by, over on Elmont by the former Aquarius, even had a little shrine, where the master margarita man shared his palapa with a refrigerator and hip-high sacks of El Galindo tostadas. Jalisco’s knew its cabrito and knew its margaritas just as well. There’s only one frozen margarita in town that is still strong enough to resemble a margarita straight up; those who frequent Nuevo Leon know it well. Now, the reliables for an unadorned margarita, though, are pretty much down to the three Ms: Manuel’s, Matt’s, and Maudie’s. It’s not that there probably aren’t other places that can make the classic; but the patron is likely to be put through the rocks-frozen-Mexican martini hoops first.