Beyond tamales and beyond favorite spicy cookies from any number of cultures, and very rare, is the kind of old-fashioned gingerbread found this week at Sweetish Hill Bakery in the form of small, intensely flavored loaves or cakes. These are not pale, being the dark brown of old-fashioned blackstrap molasses and not the golden color of gingerbread made from the light stuff. The spices are employed liberally and are very fresh. This gingerbread is a perfect complement to milk, coffee, hot tea, or vanilla ice cream. It’s great at breakfast. It’s great for a snack. It’s a wonderful dessert. If we all buy more of this hard-to-find old-style treat, maybe it’ll be available more often. I’ve tried dozens of recipes over the years and have never found any as good as what produces Sweetish Hill’s version. This is the real thing.