No matter what changes at the Shoreline Grill, chocolate intemperance is the constant. It’s always on the dessert menu, no matter what else is on what other part of the menu. We always, always save room for this triple-chocolate delight.

We satisfied some of the rest of our appetite at lunch by trying two of today’s soups: a cannellini bean and a duck and sausage gumbo. I loved, loved, loved the gumbo, and so did the table of men with Louisiana accents just behind us. We also satisfied some appetite, and very wisely so, with crab cakes and the day’s salmon preparation.

Seafood is always impeccable here. There are also dainty but generous salads, as well as hearty fried chicken and various meat preparations for the non-vegetarians. When we splurge here, we often overhear some little morsel of gossip when the indiscreet speak loudly in the sort of commanding voices that carry, as those who must answer to no superior sometimes do when they imbibe at lunchtime. This was a beautiful day to dine here. The light coming through the expanse of windows changed moment by moment as the towering clouds by turns obscured and revealed the sun, and the waters of the river were choppy and in constant motion.

We were seated at once, even though we arrived shortly after noon. Later in the week, there’s sometimes a brief wait. I’m not sure what the parking situation is these days. We walked. Service, as always, was timely and professional. The chocolate intemperance, as always, was beyond compare.