Gone are the days when long lunches were not infrequent, when thoughts turned to Lockhart and everybody took off in the same direction. Those now earning a living wage no longer enjoy the freedom allowed when Austin was a part-time, minimum-wage place for nearly everyone. This month’s Gourmet magazine isn’t giving it away for free, but the Sterns of Roodfood fame mark out the quandrangle formed by the smoky shrines of Lockhart, Taylor, Luling, and Elgin, not necessarily in that order. They’re paying particular attention to sausage. My personal favorite is hometown Smokey Denmark, but we’re all entitled to our opinions. Cough up the bucks for the mag, check out pages 28 through 30 of the June issue, on the stands now, take it to work, and start an argument at lunchtime tomorrow.