Don’t miss the charro beans at Sago. Don’t miss the Sagorita (Cazadores reposado, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, perfect and without stinting on the portion). Don’t overlook the outdoor seating if you’re not in search of air-conditioned chill. Do appreciate the subtle sauces and salsas. The corn tortillas were homemade.

At our two-top, I loved the subtlety of the sauce made from chiles de arbol. It was picante and very complex, a wonderful pairing with the pork enchiladas. The Faithful Dining Companion loved the cheese enchiladas. At first taste, the beans seemed slightly salty; if that perception was true, it was soon forgotten, since these beans were a perfect texture, with a wonderful broth and plenty of smokey pork of one kind or another. Coke was refilled with no asking required. The honey-cilantro rice could do without the honey, but that’s just one person’s opinion.

The kitchen is semi-open, the acoustics are lively, the music was Latin rock and pop, the napkins are cloth, the service is friendly and attentive, the two table salsas are not duplicated elsewhere in town, the chips are a bit salted, and the physical surroundings include a bar, booths, and tables, with colors on the Barragan-esque part of the spectrum.

Sago bills itself as “modern Mexican.” I was glad to see a good number of tables filled, even at the very beginning of the lunch hour. Sago stays open continuously from breakfast until closing. It’s attractive by day and I’d guess that it’s quite romantic under evening lighting. I plan to try other items on this menu in the future. Sago is a bright spot at the Triangle, which grows livelier day by day.