There at lunchtime were law-enforcement people, large workplace parties, and family groups. Iced tea was constantly replenished. There were three enchiladas on the plate, not the scanty two that seem to be ever more common around town. The rice was Spanish; the beans were smokey. Lots of people had ordered those giant bowls of homemade chicken soup. In the bowls were always at least two big pieces of chicken, usually legs, along with plenty of carrots and potatoes, and rice on the side to be added at will. I forgot to ask the guacamole fans how they liked the version here. I know that the person who ordered a chile relleno with cheese was very happy with it. The acoustic accompaniment was human conversation; somewhere in the background, there was recorded banda music occasionally audible. I don’t find a Web site for El Jacalito. It has been there for years in a little strip mall on Oltorf just east of IH-35. I think that over time it has expanded its physical quarters. There has always been music on the weekends. El Jacalito is spotlessly clean. Every surface that can possible shine or gleam does so, right down to the floors. Breakfast is served, from very large plates all the way to every possible combination of breakfast taco. Takeout business seems to be brisk. There’s a bar, but at lunchtime the worker bees order nothing from it. I like it that empty Corona six-pack cartons hold the salt, pepper, and sugar on each table. El Jacalito is located at 2030 East Oltorf Street (suite 110, telephone 445-4109).